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All Forums > Tech Talk > Tech Talk Forum Page 18 > Solid State Hard Drive (SSD)
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Bill All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Nov 26 2010 : 8:30PM
I recently bought a relatively high end PC. Pretty much the only thing that I didn't get was an SSD. Now, I'm starting to question whether I should have or not. Does anyone here have experience with SSD's? Are they a worthwhile upgrade? I'm currently thinking about the 128GB Crucial RealSSD C300 because they are the only SSD that utilizes SATA III (and they seem to be well liked by the reviewers at Tom's Hardware). I'd really prefer to get the 256GB version. But they're just too expensive. I figure that, by the time that I actually need the 256, the prices will have come down enough that the upgrade will cost less than the current price difference between the 128 & 256 models.
Also, for me, going with an SSD wouldn't be wasting a hard drive bay. The case that I got has 6 hard drive bays. So, the SSD would just be filling an empty bay.
Edited by - Bill on Nov 26 2010
Harri Patel
Senior Member

#SDNY he's all yours. -- Michael Steele
5110 Posts
3/03
Posted - Nov 26 2010 : 9:22PM
I went back and forth on whether to order my new Thinkpad with one, as well as whether to buy one for a cheap desktop system I just put together. It was really tempting, but I decided to wait until the technology is a little more mature, the prices come down, and the capacities go up.
Drew Black
broken crankshaft

8031 Posts
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Posted - Nov 27 2010 : 10:32AM
You will be amazed how much faster your system responds with an SSD. A consumer-grade SSD like the C300 is great for storage that is read far more frequently than is written to. It will wear out eventually. It's best to limit yourself to only 50% to 60% of the available storage capacity for performance and longevity.
Manufacturers over provision NAND flash chips in these drives to help with wear leveling. In a consumer grade SSD there may be an extra 10% of Flash in the drive that's not available to the system. A 128GB drive may actually have 144GB worth of NAND flash chips in it.
The nature of Flash chips require an erase cycle on a block/sector before writing to them. This erase takes time. There are a limited number of erase cycles before a sector starts dropping bits of data. In order to improve performance the processor in the SSD will keep a pool of blank blocks available and makes sure that it evenly distributes writes throughout all available sectors in the memory array. It does this in the background transparently to the system. This is why it's important to keep a good junk of the drive available or unused.
I know far too much about SSDs. I was part of a team that was working on designing early ones back in the mid 90s. If you have specific questions feel free to shoot me an email.
Bill All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Nov 27 2010 : 5:00PM
Thanks. I have plenty of disc space for data. I'm looking to use an SSD to hold the OS and programs. I'll use standard hard drives for everything else. I'm not too excited about the 50% to 60% recommendation. But, right now, between Windows 7 and the two Program Files folders I'm only using about 25GB. Even with the other programs that I want to install, I can't see me needing more than 64GB in the foreseeable future. So, the 128GB model is probably the way to go.
I think that I'll put one on my Christmas "wish list" and hope that a few people decide to chip in and get me one. If not, I'll probably get one after Christmas.
skronker
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9780 Posts
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Posted - Nov 27 2010 : 10:39PM
I can't wait for these to become standard on new MacBook Pros.
 
Bob All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Nov 28 2010 : 3:10PM
Bill --
If you do get an SSD, I would recommend the latest Vertex 2 models. Their specs on reads and writes are considerably faster than the Crucial SSD and they're less expensive at Newegg right now. I just installed a 90GB model as my System Drive. After installing Windows 7 64-bit, Microsoft Office 2007, and some miscellaneous programs -- but virtually none of my data -- I still have 40GB left over.
Before switching your operating system to the SSD, add it as an extra drive, format it temporarily, and download the latest firmware onto it. Then de-format it and install Windows. (Windows apparently likes to install on an unformatted SSD.)
In order to cut down on SSD wear, I configured 512KB of my 8GB of RAM as a RAM-Disk and moved all my browser temp files to that. A company called DataRAM offers free software for configuing a RAM Disk of 4GB or less.
To further cut down on wear, I moved my paging file from my System Drive to a regular 1TB HD, which has two partitions -- the first partition (12GB -- overkill) for the paging file and the second partition for my data. I also configured all my browsers to download into a folder on my regular HD rather than the Windows download folder on my SSD System Drive.
For redundant backup, I have a second 1TB internal HD and a 1TB external HD. (I lost data once and I ain't losing data again, short of a fire or an earthquate that destroys all my stuff).
Bob All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Nov 28 2010 : 3:17PM
A note on performance:
My previous system drive was a 10,000-RPM Western Digital Velaciraptor -- which was pretty fast. On Windows Vista, it scored a 5.7. It also scored a 5.7 on Windows 7, whereas my Vertex 2 SSD scored a 7.7.
Harri Patel
Senior Member

#SDNY he's all yours. -- Michael Steele
5110 Posts
3/03
Posted - Nov 28 2010 : 7:59PM
^ many seconds from cold boot to fully loaded Windows?
Bill All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Nov 28 2010 : 8:34PM
You may be right. I was looking at the Crucial because my motherboard (Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R) supports SATA 3 and the Crucial is the only SATA 3 SSD available. However, as I've been reading more and more, a lot of people are having problems taking advantage of SATA 3 with that board. It sounds like people are using one of the SATA 2 ports for the Crucial SSD's. If I can't take advantage of SATA 3 with my SSD, then there's no point in paying extra for it.
Regarding performance, my current HD is scoring a 5.1, while the rest of the machine are 7.7's (processor & memory) and 7.9's (Graphics & Gaming Graphics).
Bill All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Nov 28 2010 : 8:46PM
Is there any reason why I couldn't just clean up my current system drive and image it to the SSD? Since the machine is less than a month old, there's not much "cleaning up" to do. One other thing that I liked about the Crucial drive is that it comes with software and a usb-> SATA cable for exactly that purpose. [ invalid url ].
Bill All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Nov 28 2010 : 11:20PM
Tom's Hardware seems to disagree with you on this one.
Bob All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Nov 29 2010 : 12:18AM
^^^
Go with the Crucial and let us know how you like it.
Bob All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Nov 29 2010 : 12:25AM
Whatever works best for you.
My primary point was to recommend that you update the firmware on the SSD before you install the OS onto it. Regarding my other observation, I tried to do a clean install on a formatted SSD (which I had just updated the firmware on) and it wouldn't take. Things went smoothly when I de-formatted it and then let the OS installation process re-format it.
Bob All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Nov 29 2010 : 12:28AM
Sounds great. What CPU and graphics card(s) are you using?
Bob All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Nov 29 2010 : 12:38AM
Just timed it a moment ago: 70 seconds from cold boot to log-in screen and 10 seconds from login to fully loaded desktop.
 
Bob All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Nov 29 2010 : 4:57PM
Here are the instructions I found online and used in order to move my browser caches (i.e., temp files) to my RAM-Drive (in my case, the Z-Drive):
For Internet Explorer:
--In Internet Explorer, pull down the Tools menu and click "Internet Options".
--In the subheading heading "Browsing history", click "Settings"
--In the heading "Temporary Internet Files" click "Move Folder".
--Set the file location on the new hard drive (or RAM-drive) to be used for the cache, and then click "OK".
--Confirm the operation by clicking "Yes". Finally, click "OK" to close the window.
For Opera:
--Make sure that you are not running Opera.
--Using Windows Explorer, find the "operaprefs" file located at C:\Users\[Username]\AppData\Roaming\Opera\Opera\operaprefs.
--Double click the file "operaprefs" to open the Notepad. Copy and save the entire contents of the Notepad in case there's a screw up and you need to restore the original settings.
--Under the heading in the Notebook entitled "[User Prefs]", add the following new line: Directory4= followed the path to the new hard drive (or RAM-drive) to be to be used for the cache. If you are using a "Z-Drive" for instance, the line becomes Directory4=Z:\.
--From the File Menu, click "Save" to save the changes to the Notebook. You can now close it.
For Firefox:
--In Firefox, type the command about:config in the address box and press the "Enter" key.
--Click the right mouse button in the list of options and choose the New, String.
--In the "Name" option, enter browser.cache.disk.parent_directory. Click "OK".
--Now enter the path to new location for the browser cache -- for example, Z:\.
--Finally, click "OK". Restart Firefox to apply the change.
------------------------------
I hope this is helpful info. Use with appropriate caution.
Bill All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Nov 29 2010 : 7:38PM
Intel® Core™ i7-98 hex Extreme Edition 3.33 GHz 12M Intel Smart Cache LGA1366 & 2 EGA NVIDIA GeForce GTX 480 1.5GB 16X PCIe Video Cards
Thanks. I was going to ask about that once I got my SDD.
Bill All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Nov 29 2010 : 7:44PM
My understanding is that has been improved greatly by TRIM, which, with compatible SSD's & OS's, will erase deleted blocks of data from the SSD when the computer doesn't have something else to do. So, rather than doing an erase and write whenever a write needs to take place, only a write needs to take place.
JohnW
Senior Member

1351 Posts
6/08
Posted - Nov 30 2010 : 8:46PM
About keeping a certain portion of the drive unoccupied, does anyone know how this plays with a partitioned drive? Say that I have a 50Gb partition for windows and programs, and 100Gb partition for games. The game partition is almost full while the windows partition has 20Gb+ free. Will the physical part of the drive that holds the partition that is full wear a lot faster, or will the drive be able to distribute the data more evenly (in a physical sense) despite my partitioning?
Edited by - JohnW on 11/30/2010 8:47:51 PM
Bob All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Dec 1 2010 : 12:56PM
[computer-envy smiley!]
Bill All-Star Supporter
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5334 Posts
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Posted - Dec 1 2010 : 8:18PM
My smiley wasn't nearly as big when I received the Visa bill that not only included the PC, but also included a Disney World vacation. On the bright side, it did earn me a lot of Disney Rewards Dollars for my next Disney World trip.
Bill All-Star Supporter
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5334 Posts
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Posted - Dec 29 2010 : 9:46PM
After getting Newegg Gift Cards for Christmas, today I ordered the 256GB Crucial RealSSD 300. It should be arriving at my office tomorrow (I love the fact that Newegg ships from Edison NJ) and I'll be installing it this weekend.
Harri Patel
Senior Member

#SDNY he's all yours. -- Michael Steele
5110 Posts
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Posted - Jan 4 2011 : 9:17PM
Well?
Bill All-Star Supporter
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Posted - Jan 4 2011 : 11:31PM
So far, so good. Recently, most of the times that I've rebooted my machine, It's been part of an upgrade/install process for one thing or another. So, I haven't timed any system boot ups yet. But, when it's a clean startup, Windows 7 starts pretty quickly. However, one of the things that I changed when converting to the SSD is that I changed the Intel Controller from IDE to AHCI, which is supposed to allow the SSD to run faster. The downside to AHCI is the BIOS takes longer to boot up.
There is piece of SSD benchmark software called AS SSD. I little while ago, I was going to run it against my SSD and the old drive that it replaced for a comparison. I canceled the series of tests using my old hard drive when it said that one of the tests was going to take over 30 minutes to run. When the same test ran using the SSD, it took about 30 seconds to complete. I'll rerun the test using the old hard drive later and post the results of both runs.
The overall score for my SSD was 593 (which only makes sense to someone else who has run AS SSD).
Using the same comparison that Bob used earlier, using the Windows 7 scoring, the old hard drive scored a 5.1 and the SSD is scoring a 7.7, which brings the overall score of my machine up to a 7.7.
Edited by - Bill on 1/4/2011 11:34:31 PM



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